New Delhi, India — When fashions sashayed down the ramp at Milan Vogue Week final week, Harish Kurade checked out them on his smartphone in awe, sitting in his village in southern Maharashtra state, greater than 7,000km (4,350 miles) away.
Fashions had been showcasing a brand new line of open-toe leather-based sandals, designed by Prada, the long-lasting luxurious trend home. Nonetheless, in India, the visuals raised a furore amongst artisans and politicians after the Italian large did not credit score the traditional Maharashtra roots of its international design.
“They [Prada] stole and replicated our artful work, however we’re actually completely satisfied,” mentioned Kurade in a chirpy tone. “Immediately, the world’s eyes are on our Kolhapuri ‘chappals’ [Hindi for sandals].” Kolhapur is a metropolis in Maharashtra after which the sandals are named.
After going through backlash, Prada acknowledged that its new sandal designs “are impressed by conventional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage”, in a letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce.
Whereas Kurade is satisfied concerning the centuries-old sandal-making craft from his village probably gaining international publicity, different artisans, politicians and activists are cautious of cultural appropriation and monetary exploitation by Prada.
So, what’s the controversy about? And what are artisans in Kolhapur saying about Prada? Can it change something for the employees behind the unique sandals?
What did Prada step into?
Prada showcased the basic T-strapped leather-based flats on the Spring/Summer season 2026 menswear assortment at Milan Vogue Week.
In its present notes, the Italian model described the brand new vary of footwear solely as “leather-based sandals”. The notes made no point out of any Indian connection, regardless of its uncanny resemblance to Kolhapuri sandals, that are wildly standard throughout India and infrequently worn on particular events, akin to weddings and festivals, together with conventional Indian clothes.
Outraged, a delegation of Kolhapuri sandals producers met Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis on Thursday final week to register their protest.
Displaying his assist for the delegation is Dhananjay Mahadik, a member of parliament from the state’s Kolhapur district, belonging to the governing Bharatiya Janata Celebration (BJP). Mahadik instructed reporters that the sandal makers and their supporters are within the means of submitting a lawsuit within the Bombay Excessive Courtroom in opposition to Prada.
Mahadik additionally wrote to Fadnavis, drawing “pressing consideration to a severe infringement on Maharashtra’s cultural identification and artisan rights”, and known as on him to “shield the cultural heritage of Maharashtra”.
In his letter, he famous that the sandals are reportedly priced at roughly $1,400 a pair. Against this, the genuine Kolhapuri sandals will be present in native markets for about $12.
How has Prada responded?
The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Trade and Agriculture (MACCIA) additionally wrote to Patrizio Bertelli, the chairperson of Prada’s Board of Administrators, concerning the issues of sandal makers.
Two days later, the corporate responded, acknowledging that the design was impressed by the centuries-old Indian sandals. “We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship. Please word that, for now, your complete assortment is at the moment at an early stage of design improvement, and not one of the items are confirmed to be produced or commercialised,” Prada mentioned.
The corporate added that it stays “dedicated to accountable design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a significant change with native Indian artisan communities, as we’ve got executed up to now in different collections to make sure the rightful recognition of their craft.
“Prada strives to pay homage and recognise the worth of such specialised craftspeople that signify an unrivalled commonplace of excellence and heritage.”
Srihita Vanguri, a trend entrepreneur from the town of Hyderabad, mentioned that Prada’s actions had been “disappointing however not shocking”.
“Luxurious manufacturers have a protracted historical past of borrowing design components from conventional crafts with out giving due credit score – till there’s a backlash,” she instructed Al Jazeera. “That is cultural appropriation if it stops at inspiration with out attribution or benefit-sharing.”
Kolhapuris, which the sandals are also called, usually are not only a design, she insisted. They carry the legacy of centuries of craft communities in Maharashtra and the neighbouring state of Karnataka. “Ignoring that context erases actual individuals and livelihoods,” she added.
What about artisans of Kolhapur?
Kolhapur, nestled in southwestern Maharashtra, is a metropolis steeped in royal heritage, non secular significance and artisanal pleasure. Past its crafts, Kolhapur can be house to a number of revered Hindu temples and a wealthy culinary legacy – its meals is spicy.
Its famed sandals date again to the twelfth century, with greater than 20,000 native households nonetheless concerned on this craft.
The household of Kurade, who was completely satisfied about Prada showcasing the sandals, lives on the outskirts of Kolhapur, and has been on this enterprise for greater than 100 years.
However he mentioned the enterprise has taken a beating lately. “In India, individuals don’t actually perceive this craft or wish to put cash on this any extra. If a global model comes, steals it and showcases it on international platforms, perhaps that’s good for us,” he instructed Al Jazeera.
He mentioned that craftsmen like these in his household “nonetheless stand the place they had been years in the past”.
“We have now the craft and the capability to maneuver forward, however the authorities has not supported us,” the 40-year-old mentioned.
Reasonably, Kurade mentioned, politics has made issues worse.
Since 2014, when Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s Hindu majoritarian authorities got here to energy in New Delhi, cows have remodeled from simply symbols of reverence right into a flashpoint for non secular identification and social battle. Cow safety, as soon as largely cultural, has turn into violent, with vigilantes looking down Dalits and Muslims, the communities that principally transport cows and buffaloes to buying and selling markets the place they’re purchased for slaughter.
That has disrupted a dependable provide of cow and buffalo hides, that are then tanned with greens to make Kolhapuri chappals.
“The unique cover we use for high quality is restricted in a number of states due to politics round cows,” mentioned Kurade. “The availability has touched new lows attributable to politics on cows – and we’ve got been struggling as a result of it has turn into actually costly for us to maintain doing it with the identical high quality.”
Craftsmen like Kurade imagine that if they will make the sandals cheaper and extra accessible, “individuals will put on this as a result of it’s what individuals have beloved for hundreds of years”.
Nonetheless, Kurade mentioned, whereas Prada can attempt to imitate Kolhapuri aesthetics, it can’t replicate the intricate hand-woven design patterns, mastered by the Dalit group in southern Maharashtra and a few components of bordering Karnataka. Dalits are historically essentially the most marginalised phase of India’s complicated caste hierarchy.
“The genuine design is one thing which is uncommon and distinctive,” he mentioned. “Even outlets in Kolhapur metropolis might not have them.”
The actual designs, Kurade mentioned, are nonetheless made in villages by utilizing centuries-old craft.
However due to the problem of sourcing high quality hides, and confronted with an more and more digital market that artisans are unfamiliar with, Dalit sandal makers need assistance, he mentioned.
“Individuals who know markets, who can promote it forward, are those cashing in on this. Poor villagers like us can’t run an internet site; we don’t have the advertising data,” he mentioned.
“The federal government ought to look into this, to bridge this hole – it’s their responsibility to look into this. The advantages by no means reached the true makers from the Dalit teams.”
Has it occurred earlier than?
Since 2019, after sustained advocacy by artisan teams, India has protected Kolhapuri sandals below its Geographical Indications of Items Act (1999), stopping industrial use of the time period “Kolhapuri Chappal” by unauthorised producers. However this safety is proscribed inside nationwide borders.
Prada has beforehand confronted vital criticism over alleged cultural appropriation, most notably in 2018 when it launched the “Pradamalia” assortment – keychains and collectible figurines that resembled racist caricatures with exaggerated crimson lips, drawing fast comparisons with blackface imagery. After the backlash, Prada pulled the merchandise from shops and issued a public apology.
Prada has additionally been criticised for retailer shows which have evoked racial stereotypes, in addition to for its use of animal-based luxurious supplies like ostrich and unique leathers, which have drawn criticism from environmental and labour rights teams.
However Prada will not be alone.
In 2019, Christian Dior drew criticism for incorporating components impressed by the normal apparel of Mexican horsewomen in its Cruise assortment, with out formal acknowledgement or collaboration.
In 2015, French designer Isabel Marant got here below fireplace in Mexico for advertising a shirt that carefully mirrored the normal embroidery patterns of the Mixe group in Oaxaca, sparking accusations of cultural appropriation.
Reasonably than apologise, Vanguri, the style entrepreneur, mentioned that the “actual respect could be Prada co-creating a capsule assortment with Kolhapuri artisan clusters – giving them truthful design credit score, revenue share, and international visibility”.
“Structurally, they might decide to long-term partnerships with craft cooperatives and even fund capacity-building and design innovation for these communities,” she mentioned.